Japan was always on my travel bucket list: the food, the nature, the culture.
I was intrigued by it all.
But then I had a baby and thought I’d never visit the country.
Luckily, my husband is just as travel-mad as I am, and he insisted that we travel to Japan with our 9-month-old baby, Koa.
It took little to convince me, and a few days later, we booked our flights.
Fast-forward a few months, and we’ve just returned from a month exploring Japan with a baby.
We went from the iconic sights in Kyoto to the bustling streets of Tokyo. We ate our way through Osaka and went off the beaten track through the Japanese Alps, starting at Kanazawa and stopping at Takayama, Matsumoto, and Mount Fuji along the way.
All with a baby.
Did we face some challenges? Yes.
Was it worth it? Absolutely.
This guide covers everything you need to know: transport, accommodation, what to pack, and top tips for visiting Japan with a baby.
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Traveling Japan with a baby
Disclaimer: Japan is not one of the easiest places to travel with your little one.
If you want an easy, hassle-free holiday, visit Thailand with your baby (which we also did).
But if you’re up for an adventure and some excitement, head to Japan. You will not regret it!
You’ll have to make compromises along the way. And you may need to budget a bit more for accommodation and transport.
But, if you’re traveling with a relaxed itinerary and are willing to let go of a rigid routine for your baby, you will have an incredible time.
Is Japan safe for babies
Yes, Japan is one of the safest countries in the world. It’s an excellent place for family travel, and I always felt welcomed by the Japanese people.
When to travel to Japan with a baby
I traveled to Japan at the end of winter, which was from late February until the end of March. This is a great time of year to travel with a baby, as it’s the shoulder season and thus, fewer tourists.
It was cold in some areas, and even snowing in the Alps. But for the most part, we had beautiful, sunny days.
what to expect throughout the year
Summer (June to August): Try to avoid visiting Japan from the end of June to early September. It will be ridiculously hot and humid, making baby-wearing and outdoor activities unpleasant.
Fall (September to November): The months of October and November bring with them ideal temperatures. This is also the fall foliage season, and it’s incredibly picturesque throughout the country. But this time of year draws a large crowd (not quite like cherry blossom season).
Winter (December to February): It’s cold during this time, with most snowfall expected at the end of January. Unless you’re coming to ski, I suggest traveling either in early December or late February.
Spring (March to May): April is the start of cherry blossom season, with increased prices and hordes of tourists. March and May bring with them perfect weather and are great times to avoid the crowds.
Japan itinerary with a baby
Planning a Japan itinerary is overwhelming. Now try doing it with a baby.
It ain’t easy!
I was lucky to have a month to explore, but most families only have two or three weeks.
This means you’ll need to think carefully about your itinerary. If you’re traveling with a baby, you do not want to be on the go all day, every day.
Here are cities to include in your itinerary and other options for a more local experience.
The tourist path: Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto, Mt Fuji
Osaka: Osaka was our first destination in Japan, and we loved it (yes, more than Tokyo). It’s a vibrant city that never felt too intense. There’s lots to do and the food is out of this world. It’s underrated and great for families.
Tokyo: It’s a megacity. Bright lights. Glitzy shopping centres. It’s a city for the senses. But don’t spend all your time here. It’s chaotic and crowded, and there’s so much more to Japan than just Tokyo.
Kyoto: Kyoto was a last-minute addition to our Japan itinerary. This city is impressive, with temples and geisha districts around every corner. There’s a lot of history, but it’s big and busy.
Mt Fuji (Lake Kawaguchiko): Mount Fuji is breathtaking and easily accessible from Tokyo. We stayed at Onsen Konanso, a family-friendly onsen hotel with gorgeous rooms and Mt Fuji views.
Off-the-beaten-track destinations: Kanazawa, Takayama, Matsumoto, Hakone
We rented a car in Kanazawa and did a road trip to Tokyo, stopping at a few towns along the way.
We traveled slowly and took 8 days to reach Tokyo, but you could do it in 4. I highly recommend this option if you’re traveling Japan with a baby.
Kanazawa: Kanazawa is said to be mini-Kyoto. While it doesn’t have as impressive a list of cultural sites as Kyoto, it’s far more baby-friendly. There are so many things to do in Kanazawa, and we loved visiting the castle, Omicho market, and the geisha districts.
Takayama: From Kanazawa, we drove east to Takayama, stopping at the stunning villages of Ainokura and Shirakawa-go along the way. Takayama took me by surprise (in the best possible way). It has a small-town vibe with friendly locals, and we loved it here. Here’s the perfect Takayama itinerary for your trip.
Matsumoto: The drive from Takayama to Matsumoto took us through the well-preserved post town of Narai-Juku. Matsumoto is a bigger city famous for the Matsumoto Castle, one of the most beautiful castles in Japan. Read more about Matsumoto here.
Hakone: Hakone is just a stone’s throw away from Mount Fuji. It’s surrounded by mountains and forests, and is the best place to stay in an Onsen hotel.
How to get around Japan with a baby
The public transport in Japan is convenient and efficient, and we had no issues getting around with all our luggage. Unlike many travelers, we chose not to use luggage forwarding services.
But you should pack as lightly as possible.
We had a large travel suitcase, a large backpack, and two small day backpacks. We also had a travel cot and stroller.
That’s a lot to lug around!
Before you judge me for packing so much stuff, Japan was one of four destinations on our 3-month trip, hence all the luggage.
If Japan were our only destination, we could have gotten away with one large bag instead of two (as we did laundry regularly).
Transport options
Shinkansen train: The Shinkansen has overhead storage space that fits a travel stroller and carry-on luggage. We reserved the seats in the last row that have allocated space for large luggage. These seats are limited, so best you book in advance.
Local trains: If you’re traveling with luggage, avoid local trains during peak hours as there is little space due to the number of commuters.
Bus: Most public buses do not allow large luggage. We used taxis to get from our accommodation to the train stations.
Taxi: Babies are allowed to sit on your lap in taxis. This is common practice, and drivers in Japan drive safely and responsibly. Taxis can be expensive, so we only used them when we had to. We found it easiest to book via the Uber app.
Car rental: The most convenient way to get around Japan with a baby is by renting a car. We had a car rental for 8 days, and this made our lives so much easier. I highly recommend using Nissan Rent-A-Car. Their prices are competitive, and I was happy with the quality of their baby seats.
Should you take a travel stroller to Japan
Firstly, a baby carrier is a must-have for anyone visiting Japan with a baby. I have this one and used it every day.
But you’ll also need a travel pram in Japan.
Why? Because you’ll be out and about for the majority of the day, and baby-wearing is not practical for such long periods. Most places we visited were stroller-friendly, and Koa had one nap a day in his pram.
I did so much research into the best travel stroller and finally decided on this one. It’s seriously the best pram ever.
What about stairs
I considered not taking a pram to Japan, simply because of what I’d read online about people carrying their prams.
Spoiler alert. It’s not nearly as bad as I thought it would be!
Yes, many tourist sites are not accessible. This means you need to leave your stroller at the front desk or carry it up and down the stairs. This was common in Kyoto and is why I recommend a light-weight travel stroller like mine here.
Strollers and train stations
We often carried Koa in his pram at the train stations. Yes, there are lifts, and they’re pretty easy to find. But our pram is light (6.4 kg) and it was easier for us to carry him.
When traveling between cities with all our luggage, we used the lifts at the train stations and had no issues locating them.
Do not take your full-size pram to Japan as it will be too heavy to carry.
Accommodation with a baby
The hotel rooms in Japan are small, and you pay a lot for what you get. This is not ideal when traveling with a baby, as it will be a tight squeeze and not very comfortable.
I suggest booking apartment-style accommodation instead, which is what we did.
This way, you’ll have a living area, bedroom, kitchen, and bathroom. We prepped most of Koa’s meals in the kitchen, and it was handy to have a washing machine to do laundry.
Here’s where we stayed in Matsumoto. These apartments are often the same price (if not cheaper) than hotel rooms.
Apartments in Japan
Many families book Mimaru Suites, a chain of family-friendly apartments found all over Japan. They offer one, two, and three-bedroom apartments in prime locations.
Mimaru has glowing reviews, and it’s easy to see why it’s a popular choice for families. You can read them here.
Initially, I had wanted to stay here, but you are paying a premium due to their fantastic offering. We had a month of accommodation to pay for, and it all added up quickly.
If you’re on a shorter trip, staying at Mimaru Suites may be a better option for your family, simply for the convenience.
To save on accommodation costs, we opted to stay in apartments that weren’t in the heart of the tourist districts (therefore cheaper). Instead, we based ourselves close to the main transport links, like the Yamanote line in Tokyo.
This worked out well for us (and more affordable), and I enjoyed staying in quieter, residential areas.
Ryokans
Ryokans are the best places to stay with a baby in Japan. These are traditional Japanese homes. It’s very similar to an apartment but with one key difference:
You sleep on Futons. On the floor.
These futon beds are huge, and your baby can safely sleep on them without falling off. They’re also extremely comfortable. Here’s an example of a Ryokan that we loved.
We took our travel cot to Japan, but didn’t get much use out of it as we slept on futon beds most of the time. Ryokans were easy to find outside the major cities so if you’re only traveling to Tokyo and Osaka, they’re harder to come by.
Food for babies in Japan
Breastfeeding
I was breastfeeding Koa in Japan, and this was somewhat challenging.
I’m comfortable breastfeeding in public, and I love being able to feed on the go and in restaurants when traveling.
The issue with feeding on the go in Japan is that the restaurants are so small and compact (more on this later). Koa would be kicking the person next to me if I tried feeding him while we were out for lunch.
There is a way around this, it’s just not convenient.
Using Google Maps, I’d search for chain cafes such as Starbucks, Tully’s, and even McDonald’s. These are much bigger and have lots of seating. I’d pop in, order a coffee, and give him a quick feed.
Another option is to give your baby a feed in the toilets that have baby change facilities. This is not ideal, but we made it work. These are located in most train stations, department stores, and tourist sites.
When we had our car rental, this was easy as I could feed him in the car (before we went on our way).
Solid foods
Koa was 9 months old when we were traveling in Japan, and he was having 3 solid meals a day.
During our trip to Thailand and Vietnam a month earlier, he ate what we ate, and we didn’t pre-cook any meals for him.
Japan with a baby is different!
You’ll be out exploring all day, and when you go out to eat, you’ll have your little one on your lap the whole time (no high chairs, no space – keep reading to find out why).
We found it a lot easier to prepare food for him at our accommodation, pack it in Tupperware that we brought from home, and feed that to him when we were on the move and at restaurants.
We’d still offer him some of our food, and he loved the flavors. But it was so much easier feeding him a precooked meal over lunchtime.
Pick your battles!
Nappies and baby products
You can find nappies at most drug stores and pharmacies in Japan. They have a variety of brand options. Most are the pant-style nappies, not the ones with the folds.
We bought the Pampers nappy pants, which were fantastic.
“Babies R Us” is a popular baby store where you can find formula, baby food pouches, and baby clothes.
Cons of Japan baby travel
Below are things to note so that you’re not caught off guard after arriving in Japan with a baby.
These did not change my views on visiting the country with my family. We were able to work around them and had the best time.
But to manage your expectations, I thought it best to include them in this guide.
Small restaurants
I love the Japanese eating culture.
Small, quaint restaurants. Narrow laneways with bustling izakayas (pubs).
If you’re a solo traveler, couple, or group of friends, the food scene will be one of your Japan highlights.
But if you’re a parent, you may not have the same experience.
Gary and I wanted to eat where the locals did. Not big restaurants that cater to tourists (and also babies).
Most local restaurants in Japan are tiny with only a handful of seats. There can be long queues, which isn’t ideal when you’re traveling with a baby.
Luckily, we never had to wait for a table as we were traveling out of season. We also avoided restaurants that were Insta-famous as they draw large crowds.
No High Chairs
Most restaurants in Japan are not equipped for babies and don’t have high chairs.
In fact, during our month-long trip, we didn’t see one high chair (We avoided large restaurants that were more accommodating).
Normally, our travel stroller comes in handy when restaurants don’t have high chairs. But, there won’t be space for this either. You’ll need to fold your stroller down (and hope there’s enough room to store it).
This means your baby will be on your lap for most mealtimes.
Koa was 9 months old and was grabbing everything. This made mealtime particularly difficult for us.
But we’re such foodies and wanted to get a taste of the best of the local food.
How we made it work
Gary and I took turns having Koa on our laps while the other person ate. We packed a pre-cooked meal for him so he could eat when we ate, instead of grabbing our food.
We also distracted him with these spinners, which he loved.
If he got a bit loud or unmanageable, we took him outside for some fresh air, which allowed the other person to finish their meal.
As I said, this wasn’t ideal and often challenging. But we ate the most incredible food and got to experience the unique restaurant culture of Japan.
Just in a slightly different way!
Bars and Izakayas
Izakayas are casual Japanese bars, similar to tapas bars. They’re small, charming, and unique to Japan.
Unfortunately, most bars and Izakayas have an age limit of 20 years. We tried going for a drink while Koa had his afternoon nap on us. But we were turned away from most places we went to.
We were persistent, and a few were happy for us to pop in for a quick drink while our baby slept. Note that this was at a quiet time of day, and there were no other people in the bar.
It was lovely being able to sit and enjoy a glass of wine or Japanese whiskey after a long day of exploring – a rarity when traveling Japan with a baby.
Other things to note about eating out in Japan
- Smoking is allowed in many restaurants, but this is more common in the evening.
- Many local restaurants (outside of Tokyo and Osaka) have seating on tatami mats on the floor. We loved these as Koa could sit on the floor with us (instead of on our laps).
- We didn’t make any reservations at high-end restaurants as this would be too difficult with a baby. Instead, we booked this Onsen hotel that included a Kaiseki, a traditional multi-course Japanese meal, served in our room.
Visiting a Japanese Onsen with a baby
An Onsen is a Japanese hot spring with naturally heated baths. Some are indoors, and others have beautiful outdoor settings.
Public Onsens are gender segregated and commonly found in Hakone and Matsumoto. Clothing and swimsuits are not to be worn in these Onsens.
For hygienic reasons, many public onsens do not allow babies (which is understandable as your baby would have to enter with no nappies or clothes).
A workaround is to book a private Onsen, or better yet, an Onsen hotel with a private Onsen in your room. I highly recommend Onsen Konanso, which is where we stayed.
This allows you to enjoy the hot springs together as a family.
The water does get hot, so it’s not recommended to have your baby in the Onsen for too long. (Some have cold water taps to cool down the water.)
Luggage forwarding services
Luggage forwarding services are very popular in Japan and convenient when you have as much luggage as we did.
Most hotels offer this service, and there are select drop-off points for travelers staying at private accommodations.
But it takes a day for your luggage to reach your next destination.
So why didn’t we use luggage forwarding services? Firstly, we were not staying at hotels, so it wasn’t as simple as leaving our luggage at the concierge. Secondly, we were moving around a lot, and it was too much admin to arrange every few days.
If you’re only visiting 2 or 3 destinations in Japan, then it may be more convenient for you than it was for us.
What to pack
Here are a few things we could not have gone without.
- A travel change mat: This was our best buy and most used item of our trip. You won’t regret this purchase!
- Spinners: Koa was fascinated by these, and they distracted him when he was upset or bored. Here are the spinners we had.
- Baby carrier: You’ll be baby-wearing a lot and the Ergo Baby carrier that I had (you can find it here) offers the most support for your back and shoulders.
- Baby spoon and pocket knife. Must-have for meal time. Don’t forget to put your pocketknife in your checked-in luggage when flying (we forgot, and it was confiscated). This is the one we had.
Is it worth traveling Japan with a baby
Yes, yes, yes. We’ve traveled a lot with our baby, and Japan is the most memorable trip we’ve been on.
But you need to come to terms with the fact that you won’t see everything. And some aspects may be challenging.
The country is incredibly safe for babies, the landscapes are incredible, the culture, fascinating, and the food is next-level delicious!
I can go on and on. But I’ll leave it to you to decide for yourself. And once you have, let me know how it goes in the comments section below.
