Huayna Potosi Climb: A Comprehensive Guide to the Summit

At 6,088m, the Huayna Potosi climb is a bucket list adventure for many travelers visiting Bolivia.

It’s one of the easier 6,000m peaks to conquer, but do not be fooled.

Huayna Potosi is a beast, and I completely underestimated just how tough this climb would be.

After a 6-hour summit climb, I made it to the top.

I’m now sharing all my tips and learnings in this guide to climbing Huayna Potosi in Bolivia.

Huayna Potosi summary

• Summit height: 6,088m
• Starting point: La Paz
• Days needed: 3
• Difficulty: Strenuous
• Costs: 850 – 1000 Bolivianos (Bs)

Where is Huayna Potosi

Huayna Potosi forms part of the Cordillera Real mountain range of Bolivia. The trailhead is only 25 km from the capital city, La Paz.

Since it’s so close to La Paz, it’s a popular choice for backpackers wanting to tackle their first 6,000-meter peak.

Best time to climb Huayna Potosi

The best time to climb Huayna Potosi is from May to September.

This is the dry season, and you can expect little to no rain and clear skies.

I successfully reached the summit in May and had perfect conditions.

However, it is still possible to climb Potosi all year round, but your chances of a successful summit are lower.

The climb during the wet season will be more challenging due to wind, rain, and snow. The route may even be closed if the conditions are dangerous.

Huayna Potosi difficulty

Huayna Potosi has gained popularity amongst backpackers who arrive in Bolivia with very little training and preparation (as was the case with me).

But don’t underestimate its difficulty!

It’s extremely tough, especially if it’s your first 6,000m peak.

There are a few things that make it a challenging peak.

• The altitude
• The summit hike
• The weight of all your gear

The altitude

Huayna Potosi is 6,088m above sea level. The altitude makes everything a struggle – breathing, sleeping, climbing, eating!

Being at altitude also makes the climb dangerous.

If you do not acclimate properly, you can get Acute Mountain Sickness, which results from lower oxygen levels. Symptoms include headaches, nausea, vomiting, and loss of appetite.

AMS can be fatal if you don’t listen to your body.

The summit hike

The summit hike is not overly technical. But it still requires a good level of fitness as you walk in snow the entire time.

It is steep from the get-go and only gets steeper as you get closer to the summit.

The weight of your gear

On day 2, you carry all your gear from Base Camp (4,700m) to High Camp (5,200m).

This includes your ice boots, crampons, axes, helmet, and harness.

With all this extra weight, your pack will weigh around 17kg, which is a lot when you’re climbing at altitude.

The men in my group seemed fine with the extra weight, but I really struggled (I was the only female).

You can pay 150 Bs for a porter to carry your bag instead.

I was too stubborn and wanted to do it myself. But in hindsight, I should have saved my energy for the summit attempt.

Remember, you’ll start climbing to the summit on night 2. If your body is tired from a strenuous day getting to High Camp, it might affect your chances of reaching the top.

How many days do you need

The standard Huayna Potosi climb is a 2-night/3-day tour from La Paz.

However, there is also a 2-day alternative. But I don’t recommend this.

Why? The high altitude.

If you’ve spent time acclimatizing at a higher altitude and have completed other altitude hikes, then you could do the 2-day option.

But for everyone else, stick to the 3-day climb. This will increase your chance of reaching the summit.

Huayna Potosi tour costs

Huayna Potosi tour costs are really affordable, considering it’s a 6,000m peak.

I paid 850 Bs (Bolivianos) for the 3-day tour with Illimani Mountain Tours.

This included a guide, all climbing gear, a sleeping bag, return transport from La Paz, food, and accommodation.

There is an additional 50 Bs entry into the park.

I booked my tour two days before and found that all tour operators were similarly priced.

If you prefer to book your tour in advance, you can do so here. But prices are more expensive when compared to booking in person a few days before your climb.

Tips for climbing Huayna Potosi mountain

Spend 3 nights in La Paz

The best way for your body to acclimatize is by spending a few days at altitude before taking on a higher climb.

La Paz is at 3,640m, which is also pretty high. It’s the perfect place to spend your first few days in Bolivia before climbing Huayna Potosi.

I stayed at this hotel before and after my climb and highly recommend it. The location is perfect as it’s within walking distance to all the tour agencies.

Do an acclimatization hike

I also recommend doing an acclimatization hike during this time.

I climbed Austria Peak (5,350m), which is easily accessible on a day trip from La Paz.

You need to reach the summit by 7 am

For safety reasons, you must reach Huayna Potosi’s summit by 7 am.

The ice melts after sunrise, making the descent dangerous due to potential avalanches.

Walking at a slow pace is good for acclimatizing. But your guide could ask you to turn around if he doesn’t think you’ll make it by 7 am.

However, you don’t need to run up the mountain to meet the deadline!

I’m a slow hiker and was at my slowest during the Huayna Potosi climb. I reached the summit just in the nick of time!

Things to know

There’s no ice wall at the summit

When I first saw images of people climbing Huayna Potosi, I assumed that the summit climb involved some pretty serious ice climbing.

But no, there is no ice climbing to reach the summit (unless you do the French Route).

So, why do photos show everyone climbing a massive ice wall?

This, as my mountain guide said, is for the “photo.”

As part of the technical training on day 1, you visit a glacier with an ice wall you can climb – if you want to.

It’s a fun activity, and you basically go up and back down again.

Note: You will use your ice axe during the summit climb. But this is more so for support rather than for actual climbing.

Accommodation during the climb

All accommodation for the Huayna Potosi climb is in rustic mountain huts.

Most offer large dormitories with ten or more beds. Although the rooms are basic, they are comfortable.

A mattress will be waiting for you – but that’s about it. You’ll need to bring your own sleeping bag. It gets freezing cold overnight, so pack warmly.

There are no showers, but there are toilets.

There are two routes to the Huayna Potosi summit

Two routes lead to the summit of Huayna Potosi: the French Route and the Normal Route.

The most common route, and what I recommend, is the Normal Route. This is the easiest option and doesn’t involve any intense ice climbing. But it’s still tough!

The French Route is for experienced climbers only and involves some serious technical sections.

Huayna Potosi Deaths

As with all peak climbing, there are risks. There have been deaths on Huayna Potosi. However, it is very uncommon.

This is why you need to take the altitude seriously and acclimatize properly. Listen to your body and walk slowly.

If you start experiencing throbbing headaches and nausea, turn around.

There are crevasses, and sections of the summit climb that can be dangerous, so you need to concentrate and watch your footing.

Your guides will put your safety first, so listen to their advice if they’re worried about weather conditions or your health. Don’t take any chances.

Huayna Potosi day by day itinerary

Day 1: La Paz – Base Camp – Glacier training – Base Camp

On day 1, you’ll leave La Paz at 9 am and drive to Huayna Potosi Base Camp (4,700m).

You’ll arrive at base camp by 11 am and have a quick lunch.

In the afternoon, you’ll walk from Base Camp to a nearby glacier. Here, you’ll put on all your climbing gear and practice walking in your crampons.

Once you’re comfortable with the technical aspects, you can climb the ice wall. You’ll then make your way back down to Base Camp.

Day 1 is very relaxed compared to days 2 and 3.

But it’s still an important day for acclimatization.

Note: If you’re doing the 2-day itinerary (not 3 days), you will skip this afternoon’s training. Instead, you will go straight to High Camp on day 1 and not spend the night at Base Camp.

Day 2: Base Camp – High Camp

On day 2, you’ll climb from Huayna Potosi Base Camp (4,700m) to High Camp (5,200m) with all your gear.

This will take 3 to 4 hours.

The route is very steep and has numerous switchbacks. Some sections are in the snow, so you may need your crampons.

Day 3: High Camp – Huayna Potosi Summit – La Paz

Day 3 is the most challenging: the summit climb (6,088m).

You’ll start your trek at 1 am and continue for 6 hours to the summit.

You will have a harness attached to your guide and climbing buddy for safety reasons.

The first 5 hours of hiking are in the dark. But at least you won’t see what’s coming!

The final stretch to the summit is the most intense, but no hectic technical climbing is involved.

After spending 15 minutes taking in the views, you’ll start your descent to Base Camp. This is when you’ll realize just how steep the climb was.

It will take 3 to 4 hours to get down, making it a 10-hour trekking day!

A colectivo bus will be waiting for you at Base Camp, and you’ll be back in La Paz by 6 pm.

What to pack for Huayna Potosi

• 50 l backpack
• 2 hiking tops
• 2 hiking pants
• 1 set of thermal underwear
• Headlamp
• Fleece jacket
• 2 pairs of thick socks
• Sunglasses
• Water bottles (2l)
• Gloves
• Beanie
• Toilet paper
• Hiking/trail shoes

Provided by your tour operator

• Sleeping bag (-10 degrees)
• Down jacket
• Harness
• Helmet
• Crampons
• Snow boots
• Waterproof pants
• Ice axe
• Gaiters
• Trekking poles

My experience of climbing Huayna Potosi

When I think of Huayna Potosi, the summit climb is the first thing that comes to mind!

After 4 hours of trekking uphill in the snow, I didn’t think I would make it to the summit.

My body was exhausted, my legs were heavy, and I struggled to catch my breath. But I had no headache and no symptoms of altitude sickness.

I knew that I had it in me to get to the summit. I also knew I would never live it down if I failed because “my legs were sore.”

So I kept going and finally made it. It was a mental struggle more than anything else.

So, can people with no mountaineering experience summit Huayna Potosi?

Yes!

But do not think it’s going to be easy.

Is Huayna Potosi Worth it

Before climbing Huayna Potosi, I spent weeks deciding whether to do it. I had already summited a 6,000m peak in Nepal and knew what was in store.

Did I really want to put myself through 3 days of torture to get to the summit of Huayna Potosi?

Well, I’m so glad I did!

The views throughout the trek are spectacular. But the climb was about more than that.

It was saying yes to a massive challenge. Pushing myself to my limits both mentally and physically. Meeting travelers from all over the world who were experiencing the same struggles I was. Supporting each other. Encouraging each other.

No, I did not love climbing Huayna Potosi. In fact, I hated it! But it was the most memorable thing I did during my 7-month backpacking trip.

Where to next

After my Huayna Potosi trek, I headed north to the Bolivian Amazon. It was just what I needed – sea level and warmer weather!

If you have time, I highly recommend you do the same.

Like it? Pin it!

Torn Tackies contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase using one of these links, I may receive compensation at no extra cost to you. See my disclosure for more information.

---

Are you planning on climbing Huayna Potosi in Bolivia? Drop me a message in the comments section below if you have any questions.