I had no expectations for my Flores trip and did very little planning before setting foot on the island.
I had given myself 2 weeks to travel overland from Labuan Bajo (Komodo Islands) to Ende, but a last-minute change of plans saw me taking the ferry from Sumba Island to Flores instead. This meant I started my journey in the middle of the island, closer to Bajawa.
While my travel route was slightly different from most, I still saw all the main attractions and have updated my Flores itinerary to suit one you’ll most likely follow: From West to East.
In this guide, I’m sharing everything you need to know about visiting Flores. It includes how to get around the island, which villages to visit, and those bucket list attractions you cannot miss.
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How to get around Flores
There are a few ways to travel overland from Labuan Bajo to Ende. You can hire a private driver, take public transport, or ride a scooter.
Ideally, you want to do a one-way trip, which means you’ll fly out of Ende on the last day, instead of driving all the way back to Labuan Bajo.
Transport options
Private driver | Most people hire a driver and private vehicle for the duration of their trip. This allows you to create your own itinerary and customize it depending on how much time you have.
A private driver costs 9 00 000 IDR to 1 000 000 IDR per day, which includes fuel and the driver’s accommodation and meals.
Public transport | I was backpacking Flores and got around using local buses and bemos (small shared minivans). There are plenty of buses running between towns, so there’s no need to book ahead. Our homestay hosts helped us with departure times and where to catch them, and overall, we had a good experience.
This is definitely the cheapest way to travel – but also the slowest. The buses only leave when they’re full and stop frequently, making detours to drop off and pick up passengers. With alot of patience, you’ll get through it!
After arriving in each village, we rented scooters to explore the area. These cost us 70 000 to 85 000 IDR per day.
Scooter | Whilst this is the fun and adventurous option, there is one downside: You’ll need to get your scooter back to your original starting point. This will add an extra 2 days to your itinerary. Alternatively, you can pay an extra fee to have someone drive it back for you.
Travel route and number of days
You can either start your trip on the west side of the island (Labuan Bajo/Komodo Islands) and make your way to the east (Ende or Maumere).
Or do it in the opposite direction.
Along this route are numerous places to visit, including Ruteng (rice fields and hobbits cave), Bajawa (hot springs, cultural villages, Inerie Volcano), Riung (17 Islands National Park), and Moni (Kelimutu Lakes).
Considering how much there is to see, you don’t want to rush it. At a minimum, you’ll need 11 days to see the highlights, which is what I’ve included in this itinerary.
I skipped Maumere and flew out of Ende as I wanted to spend more time in the Komodo Islands and Riung. I suggest doing the same if you’re running out of time.
Flores itinerary overview
- Labuan Bajo: 3 nights
- Ruteng: 1 night
- Bajawa: 2 nights
- Riung: 2 nights
- Moni: 2 nights
Day 1: Labuan Bajo
Time needed | 1 night
Labuan Bajo is the gateway to the Komodo National Park in Flores, Indonesia. These islands have put Flores on the map, and the park can get extremely crowded during peak season (June to September).
To get here, you’ll fly into Labuan Bajo Airport. The town itself isn’t much to write home about, so don’t spend more time here than you have to.
We booked a scuba diving liveaboard, so after arriving in Labuan Bajo, we headed straight to the dive shop to meet the crew and try out all the gear.
If you haven’t booked a Komodo tour yet, then today is a good opportunity to do so.
The main road is lined with scores of travel agencies and tour operators. If you want a private boat, I suggest going to the harbor and chatting directly to the captains.
It’s best to shop around until you find a boat tour that suits your preferred itinerary and try to negotiate a good deal.
Afterwards, we headed to Paradise Bar to watch the sunset.
Where to stay | I stayed at Seaesta Komodo Hotel and loved it. Not only is it situated in a prime location, but the views from the rooftop pool are also pretty epic! If you’re looking for something more private (and luxurious), you’ll love Villa Domanik.
Day 2-3: Komodo Islands
Time needed | 2 nights
On day 2, you’ll head out on your Komodo Islands tour. I did a 3-night scuba diving liveaboard, which you can read about here.
But most travelers prefer an overnight option instead. Don’t do a day trip – it’s just not worth it.
The boat ride out to Komodo National Park is a pretty long one, and there’s a lot to see, including snorkeling with manta rays, hiking Padar Island, swimming at Pink Beach, and finding Komodo Dragons on Rinca Island.
Booking an overnight trip gives you 2 full days to explore Komodo National Park. If you have more time, a 2-night liveaboard is ideal.
After spending the night on your boat, you’ll have another full day to explore the Komodo Islands.
Most liveaboards arrive back in Labuan Bajo at 5 pm, which is where you’ll spend the night here before setting off on your overland journey the next day.
Day 4: Ruteng
Time needed | 1 night
As you drive 4 hours east of Labuan Bajo, you’ll come across Ruteng, a small village hidden amongst the hills of Flores Island.
There are two main attractions here: The Spider Rice Fields and Liang Bua Cave, which is where skeletal remains of hobbit humans have been found.
Depending on your arrival time, you can easily visit both spots in one day. Or take it slow and explore one the next morning before heading to Bajawa.
Then there’s Wae Rebo Village, which might throw a spanner in the works for your Flores itinerary!
This isolated village is located high in the mountains and is famous for its traditional cone-shaped houses.
Getting to Wae Rebo Village involves a challenging 3 to 4 hour hike through the jungle. You’ll then need to stay overnight, where you’ll sleep in traditional huts and share meals with the locals. Some people have attempted to visit independently from Ruteng, but the locals prefer you to book an overnight tour instead.
I didn’t have enough time to visit Wae Rebo Village, but if it’s on your radar, you’ll need an extra 2 days, as it’s a bit of a detour.
Where to stay | Sun Rice Homestay offers a gorgeous setting nestled amongst the rice fields. The overall experience is hard to beat, especially given the affordable price.
Day 5-6: Bajawa
Time needed | 2 nights
Next up is Bajawa, which is a 4-hour drive from Ruteng.
Of all the places on my Flores itinerary, Bajawa was my favorite.
Why? Because it was so unique.
We arrived and headed straight to Malanage Hot Springs. This is the most incredible natural hot spring I’ve ever experienced, and you can easily spend hours here.
From there, we visited Bena Traditional Village, which is nearby.
The next day, we woke up at 2 am to hike to the summit of Mount Inerie. It’s a tough hike, but the views are magnificent. I’ve put together this guide to Mount Inerie – give it a read to see if it’s your kind of challenge.
If you choose to skip the volcano hike, then head to Wolobobo viewpoint which has beautiful views of the volcano. You can also visit another hot spring, Mangeruda Hot Springs, or Ogi Waterfall.
I’ve written this detailed guide to all the things I did in Bajawa.
Where to stay | I stayed at Cinnamon Guest House, which is right in the heart of Bajawa. The large, comfortable rooms are well-priced, and the wonderful owner assisted us with scooter rentals and other logistics.
Day 7-8: Riung
Time needed | 2 nights
Riung is a small fishing village and home to 17 Islands Marine Park. It’s a beautiful national park with crystal clear waters, incredible snorkeling, and white sandy beaches.
The best part? No crowds!
I’d never heard of the place before, but after chatting with a local in Bajawa, I decided to add it to my Flores itinerary.
The drive took us 4 hours (with public transport), but if you go with a private car, it only takes 2 hours. We arrived at lunch time and spent the afternoon walking around the village.
Don’t book your 17 Islands boat tour before arriving in Riung. There are plenty of boats available and not many tourists. You can either book through your accommodation or head to the pier where all the action happens, which is what we did.
The next morning, we hopped on the boat and made our way to 17 Islands National Park. After stopping at a few snorkeling spots, we headed to Bat Island and had a delicious fish BBQ on a secluded beach.
We arrived back in Riung at 5 pm, absolutely exhausted after a fun day out on the water.
Where to stay | I stayed at Riung Guesthouse, which is just a short walk from the pier. The price includes a simple breakfast, and the kind owner will assist with booking island hopping tours.
Komodo Islands vs 17 Islands | 17 Islands Marine Park has a completely different vibe from the Komodo Islands. Komodo is a tourist hotspot with hundreds of tour operators. Riung, on the other hand, is a tiny village with no big operators. You only need a day to explore 17 Islands, and the snorkeling is great, but not as impressive as the diving in Komodo. I loved my time in Riung and highly recommend doing both the Komodo Islands and 17 Islands.
Day 9-10: Moni
Time needed | 2 nights
Next, we drove for 3 hours from Riung to Moni (via Ende).
Moni is home to the famous Mount Kelimutu, a dormant volcano more commonly known for its tri-colored lakes.
And yes, they are just as striking as the pictures, if not better!
Most people spend one night in Moni and leave after seeing the Kelimutu Lakes for sunrise. That was our initial plan, as it only takes 20 minutes to reach the lakes from the parking area.
But it was pouring with rain in the morning, so we decided to hang around and ended up having the best experience at the lakes later in the day.
That’s why I recommend spending two nights in Moni to allow for bad weather and also to explore more of the village.
Where to stay | I stayed at Rago’s Homestay and loved it. It’s a local spot just outside of town with lovely owners.
Day 11: Depart from Ende
On your last day, you’ll drive an hour to Ende, a larger town with an airport and regular bus connections.
Ende doesn’t have much to offer, so don’t spend any time here.
We booked an afternoon flight out of Ende so we left Moni in the morning and headed straight to Ende Airport.
Extra time: Maumere
Time needed | 1 night
Maumere is the city furthest east on the island. Like Ende, Maumere has an airport, so if you have a few extra days, you could head here after Moni instead of flying out of Ende.
Maumere is known for its history and traditional villages. Another attraction is Koka Beach, which is actually a 90-minute drive from Maumere. Because I was using public transportation, it seemed like a logistical nightmare (another reason I decided to give it a skip.)
READ MORE: THE ULTIMATE 3 WEEK INDONESIA ITINERARY
Best time to visit Flores Indonesia
The best time to visit is during the dry season, from May to September. The days are cool and clear, making it ideal for exploring without having to dodge rain clouds.
We visited in August and had perfect weather, with a few chilly nights in Bajawa. Between all the scooter rides and long waits for local buses, I was so grateful we didn’t have to deal with rain or humidity.
The wet season (November to March) brings daily downpours. They usually don’t last long, but if you’re backpacking or riding a scooter with all your gear, you’ll end up soaked. If you’re traveling during these months, it’s definitely worth hiring a private driver instead.
Is Flores Indonesia worth visiting
Yes! Visiting Flores was one of the highlights of my Indonesia trip.
There’s just enough tourist infrastructure in place to make it easy to travel overland, yet the island is remote enough not to be overcrowded and touristy.
Looking for more Indonesia travel information? Check out my other posts!
- Backpacking Indonesia: Things You Need to Know
- 30+ Indonesia Landmarks You Have To See
- What to Pack For Your Indonesia Trip
- The Perfect Bali Itinerary
- The Ultimate Guide To Kuta, Lombok: Best Beaches, Surf, and Things To Do
- Where to stay in Bali
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This is awesome! I just got back from Labuan Bajo yesterday and now I’m wishing I stayed longer to explore more of Flores. That settles it, I must go back!
Ah no! At least you got to explore the Komodo Islands and you can visit the rest of the island on your next trip. Happy travels!
Wow! What a comprehensive guide on Flores. I’d love to visit Indonesia and will absolutely want time include Flores in my itinerary. I’d love to go snorkeling there 😊
Thanks Jyoti! The snorkeling off the coast of Flores is world class.
I’m considering a trip to Indonesia next summer and I had never heard of Flores! I love learning about parts outside of big tourist locations. Thank you!
Definitely include Flores on your Indonesia itinerary. It’s my favorite island and if you love adventure, you’ll love Flores!
The Kelimutu lakes… wow! This is a great itinerary, nice to see lots to do and so many different places to see. I’m a big public transport fan when I travel too. If it takes a little longer that’s usually ok unless I have a time crunch for something I might have booked
Hi Emma! Aren’t they gorgeous. Flores is a backpacker’s paradise!
Two years I did this trip as well and got a one-way motorbike rental from Divers Paradise Komodo. Don’t know if they still do it, but that is a great way to see the island, especially because of the great roads.
Hi Steven, thanks for this. It would be amazing if there was a company that allowed for one-way rentals. I’ll look into your recommendation and update the post if it’s an option.
Hello Carryn.
I was wondering if you know how do i go about renting a car with a driver in Flores. I know you did backpacking but also mentioned a car hire. I figured you might have information. Thanks
Hi Irina, there are many drivers who advertise their services on the internet but I prefer getting personal recommendations from other travelers. You can find these on TripAdvisor or Facebook groups as people often share their feedback in those communities.
If you find a driver you recommend, please let me know so I can include it in the post for future readers.
Have a great time in Flores!
Carryn
HI! May I know what time you took the flight out of Ende? From what I understand you didn’t spend the night in Ende, but you immediately took the outbound flight once you arrived from Moni, right? Thanks in advance.
Hey Sandro,
Yes, that’s correct. You don’t need to spend the night in Ende. I flew out of Ende at 14:40 with Garuda Indonesia but arrived at the airport around 10 am – it was a long wait! But there may be delays in getting from Moni to Ende so I recommend erring on the side of caution and flying out late morning/afternoon rather than early morning.
Have fun!
Carryn
What an amazing information. Very usefull!
I was wondering how it works with renting the motorbikes. Because thats the option me and my girlfriend would like to do. But is there a way to get your stuff with you, because we have been travelling for over a year. So 2 65L backpacks and hand luggage is a bit much to take…
Hi Peter,
When I previously did an overland trip from Bali to Java, I arranged with my accommodation to store my luggage for a small fee. I then only took a smaller 30L backpack with me on my scooter. I suggest you contact a hotel in Lubuan Bajo and ask if they are able to do this for you.
With regards to renting a bike, the only downside is that you will need to get your bike back to where you started your trip from (which results in a lot of unnecessary driving as there’s not a loop route). I suggest looking on Trip Advisor or searching local Facebook groups to see if there is a company that offers a one way scooter rental option. You can then fly from Ende back to Labuan Bajo to fetch your belongings. However, this will be the more expensive option.
I used public transport to travel Flores and rented scooters in each town I visited – this was the easiest and cheapest option for me (even though I would have preferred renting a bike for the entire duration)
Hope that helps 🙂
Enjoy Flores
Carryn